Wednesday, June 27, 2007

The cab drivers have started taking me on a different route home to beat the traffic. I now sometimes go by Charni Road station. Travelling near the railway always makes me uneasy. The shacks and makeshift homes around the railway seem the most urgent and crude. Often nothing but a tarp and some string define the boundaries between homes. Homes that are about the size of a cubicle. Homes that are swept daily, and meticulously maintained in spite of their location between the busy road and the tracks. Children run barefoot on unprotected ground with only asphalt beneath them, cooking is done next to the bed and there are no filters to protect the overworked lungs of the inhabitants.
I haven’t been here long enough to stop looking.

Yesterday I waited at a signal in front of the station and saw a small glimmer of something special. A tarp was slightly ajar. A young couple, younger than me, sit quietly eating dinner. They have the air of newlyweds and sit very close. She is beautiful. She reaches to feed him and he eagerly obliges. They burst into a fit of laughter and the signal changes and the driver zooms ahead. .

The rest of the way I look into their homes with a different pair of eyes. I see husbands and wives sitting, squatting, talking and eating. Families always eating together. I think of how often I eat alone and am envious.

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Tuesday, June 26, 2007

Tu Chaal, Me Aayi

So another weekend gone by, another two days taking me closer to the day I leave Bombay. I’m already sad about it. Another classic weekend in the lives of the Bombay-ites (Mumbai-ikers?) I call my friends.

Highlights: Karaoke in Hindi. The pure excitement of hearing a Aaja Shaam Hone Aayi from my favorite Hindi movie of all time Maine Pyar Kiya (don’t ask, I was 11 and Salman Khan was in his prime) . Closing down Merlin’s . Sam’s antics (isn’t this always the case). My first Mumbai monsoon storm. Lazing around on Sunday at Hard Rock. And for some reason Karaoke again, this time in English at Not Just Jazz by the Bay.

It’s crazy how well I fit in with the gang here, it is as though like I’ve been here for ages. There is a chance they’re just being nice but I prefer to think they’re not faking it.

Monday morning I return to office and I realize that I haven’t been doing much traditional sightseeing in Bombay. I still haven’t seen the Taj Hotel, the Gateway of India or the Haji Ali Mosque. Each of these is within a 5 minute ride from my house or office. I’m going to fix that. When I’m back from Bangalore I’m going to spend one entire day in town. I’ll have a car drop me off at the Causeway and just wander. Stay tuned.

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Thursday, June 21, 2007

One week in...

Every morning and evening I get to take Marine Drive to get to work. In the mornings, life is just getting started, people walking to work and getting exercise. In the evenings the boardwalk is full of young couples, I even saw one young man steal a kiss while I waited in traffic. They sit close together and chat, the girls so shy and giggly, constantly touching their hair. Their body language is like something out of a book. Yesterday evening there was high tide and the waves crashed the seawall, spraying anyone within a ten foot radius, sending the couples running in every direction.

I've made it to work and home on my own all week. Always in a black and yellow. Never once getting taken for a ride or overcharged. I'm pretty proud of myself but think its more because these Mumbai cab drivers are gracious.

I woke up yesterday morning with one goal - Pasta, I was missing pasta. Two days ago it was Chinese. I don’t know why. I went to dinner at the Frangipani at the Hilton Towers. The lobby gives you a feeling that important things happen there. Whereas the name suggests a colonial spin, I was surprised to find out that it was in fact the perfect name for an Italian restaurant.

Leaving the restaurant I walked towards the water right into the filming of a commercial. Whoops. You’d think they would have someone blocking the way into the frame. I think it was for a car, with some Sanjay Dutt lookalike standing next to a gold vehicle with the wind running through his hair.

The Mumbai of 5 Star Hotels is its own experience. Clean, grand spaces with high ceilings, cushy armchairs and smiling, gracious staff. I can’t help thinking that experiencing India that way is so sterile and unnatural. Each hotel in each area feels exactly the same. Although it is a painless day to day in the 5 star world, I can’t help but be thankful that I’m having a much more authentic experience, its posh yes, but authentically Bombay posh.

My success story for this week is that I found a good driver to take me from meeting to meeting in an A/C car. Sundeep. He’s punctual and speaks English. He doesn't charge me too much(I asked around). He knows the buildings I’m going to without needing to ask on the street. He’s made friends with the guard at my building who now lets him park inside the gate to wait for me. The guys at work have his car number and phone number just in case.

He tells me stories of the neighbourhoods we pass and shows me new construction projects and how they’re going to impact the skyline. “ Did you know that Lata Mangeshkar lives here?” He says as we pass a building down the street from mine. “And that Kajal grew up here?” further up the street. I gape in wonder, and then realize that even more incredible is that my Dad lived right down the street from where I’m staying now in the 60s. It’s a strange coincidence, I think.

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Tuesday, June 19, 2007

I've found my salvation

Less than 5 minutes away from my house sits a Crosswords bookstore (think Barnes and Noble or Chapters). It’s full of big comfy armchairs, with no time limit on how long I can stay there.

Everything about it is perfect, especially the bursting at the seams Indian Fiction section that I always wish every bookstore in the world had plus a religion section full of books on Hinduism, unlike the half shelves at home.

The Moshe’s Café in the bookshop is the most ethnically diverse place I’ve seen. In the one hour it took me to finish my tea and toastie there was the Russian (or something similar) speaking couple in full Indian garb, the French friends - one Indian one not, the Aussie father with his young son, multiple businessmen reading the latest Forbes Asia, the four cosmopolitan Bombayites – eating lunch and gossiping about last night, the Americans reading two books I recent saw on the Daily Show, the other girl like me – an NRI from the US pouring over the guidebooks.

It’s my favorite place so far.

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Monday, June 18, 2007

The stuff that fairy tales are made of...

Bombay is magical. Met up with Vijay, Sam et all yesterday at Cafe Mondegar in Colaba. Until then Colaba was a place in storybooks to me, it feels surreal to see the places in real life. Next weekend I’m going to create my own Shantaram tour, I don’t have the book with me but think I can remember most of the main landmarks.

Going out with these boys (and ladies) is exhausting, I think the jet lag/fatigue made everything hit harder (flash back to AI transition weekend, for those who remember). From Colaba to Worli to Bandra to Juhu, I think I've now seen much of the city in just one night. The resonating shock of going to a club with a cover of 2500/per couple (around 60+$) and even more for stags (75$) and not seeing any other shocked faces at the amount is still with me. This isn't the India from the infomercials.

It rains everyday for a few hours. Outside my window there is this huge tree that seems to redirect the rain away from the building, this means I can sit and enjoy the air and crispness during the downpour. It’s always brief though and as soon as the rains sop it all turns to steam and the mugginess returns. , I’m waiting for the days when it rains nonstop, to really learn the true meaning of the word monsoon.

Bombay a city of so many contractions, maybe this entire country is. One of these days I'll elaborate. To me the equalizer seems to be the taxis, everyone takes them – giggling girls on their cell phones, elderly couples, tourists, you name it. Of course it’s an equalizer only among the vast middle classes but nonetheless I still think it’s safe to say it is still one.

Being here seems oddly natural, the adjustment for everything but my stomach is happening awfully fast. The stomach will come later.

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Tuesday, June 05, 2007

BFF's again :)

Finally spoke to Amy last night after what felt like a lifetime. A great reminder of how for real friendships time doesn't matter. Made plans (tentatively) to see eachother again on a beach. Can't wait.